BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE PROFESSIONAL
BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE SERIES
BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE CRACK

Using a metal scraper I was able to remove the rest of the wood from the tray.

(This caused some damage to the fiberglass and at least 1 layer of mat was removed in some areas where it was still bonded to the wood.)

Once the fiberglass bottom and top layers are cut apart where they intersect, I used a long screwdriver to pry the bottom fiberglass layer from the wood.

With the hatch supported, use a small grinder or cut-off wheel to cut along the inner border separating the top of the latch (what I called the 'tray') and the bottom fiberglass layer.

Remove the latches and support for the gas piston.

BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE PROFESSIONAL

To begin with, I'm not a professional in this area and this is most likely not the best way to accomplish this. Here are the steps that I used to complete the repair. West System 105-B and 205-B epoxy resin system with metering pumps (I ended up using about 75% of the gallon).1/2' Marine Grade Plywood (No local lumber yard carried 3/8' which is what the hatch actually needed).The hatch appeared to have been built with end-grain balsa wood core from the factory, I don't know if that would be a good replacement core or not due to the rotting that I saw. I believe that the marine plywood added substantial weight to the hatch, but it's hard for me to compare because 1/2 of the wood was missing from the hatch when I took it off the boat. I'm confident that this hatch is waterproof and will not rot like it did previously. The part is discontinued by Yamaha and so unless you can find a used one or from a salvage boat, rebuilding is going to be our only option. Because of the rotten wood, I had to replace the core of the hatch and rebuild it. The wood was entirely missing on half of the hatch.

BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE CRACK

Unfortunately a crack in the hatch and no sealing inside of the holes for the latches allowed water to penetrate into and rot out the wood core.

The hatch is basically comprised of 3 parts: the tray that is the top of the hatch that you walk on, a wood inner core, and a fiberglass bottom that is meant to seal the bottom to the top and make it waterproof. After I took the hatch apart I realized the damage was a lot worse than I had expected. Once I got the boat home I started out by removing the hatch from the boat. When I inspected the boat before delivery I noticed that the starboard side of the hatch was solid, but the port side was incredibly spongy and had a lot of give on it. The first major project I tackled was replacing the wood inside of the deck hatch on the swimstep over the clean out ports. When opening, the angled frame allows the water to drain out.I'm the new owner of a 2007 AR230 that has needed a little bit of work to get it water ready for the next season. When closing, the first lip absorbs the wave while a second contact point ensures ultimate watertightness. The hatch features a double contact seal system. Possibility to open to 180° by removing stay screw.

They feature a lock catch which prevents breaking in from outside.Īll models are equipped with adjustable stay up from 0 to +/- 120° (depending on model). The ergonomic shape of the handles ensures comfortable space for an excellent prehension. Approved in areas IIa, III and IV (except T80- consult us.Mounting on a flat surface with a ± 0.5 mm tolerance.Supplied as standard with a gray acrylic.

BOAT HATCH SCREEN SHADE SERIES

The available sizes are common standards used on large series boats. The aluminium hinges are invisible, the one-piece aluminium lid with a thick frame section provides optimal rigidity, and is always more discreet thanks to its low height (up to 19 mm for teak decks). True to Goiot quality tradition, the Opal hatches range combines optimal watertightness, easy installation and aesthetism thanks to its many technical advantages.

Boat hatch screen shade